Check out this revolutionary Chemical Sprayer For Contractors!

Click Here To Order One Of These Chemical Sprayers Now!

• Adjustable Gun Controls Flow & Pressure Up To 90 PSI
• No Electricity or Heavy 12 volt Car Batteries!
• Use The Supply Hose or a 2 Liter Bottle for chemical feed!
• Shoots a stream up to 30’ high!
• 2 Rechargeable Batteries Included!
• Super quick charger can recharge a battery in one hour!
• Industrial grade Viton seals for long life!
• Self Priming Pump

This sprayer is used in a variety of ways to apply Cleaners, Sealers, Disinfectants, Quaternaries, Mildewcide, Bactericide, Deodorizers, Insect Repellents and Weed control products, making it one of the most versatile and easy to use sprayers on the market!

We also offer two different options that improve the performance and ease of use for contractors that value speed and better performance.

Our Quick Connect Upgrade Kit gives you all the Quick Connect fittings and parts that you need to setup your gun for using the same Quick Connect fittings and tips that you use every day.  It also makes it faster and easier to change out tips on the fly!

The 89500-QC Kit for $14.50 Includes:

1.   1– 1/4″  40 Degree Nozzle
2.   1– 1/4″  0 Degree Nozzle
3.   1 –1/4″  QC Socket
4.   1– 1/4″  QC FPT

Our Wood Pro Upgrade Kit includes everything in the QC Kit, and actually increases the guns performance allowing you to use it for applying thicker and heavier wood stains, like Ready Seal Deck Sealer and even Armstrong Clark Semi Transparent Stains!  Most pump up sprayers have a hard time applying these products because they contain a lot heavier pigments for better UV Protection.

The 89500-WP Kit for $29.00 Includes:

1.    20′ section of larger diameter Heavy Duty chemical resistant PVC Tubing.
2.    Hose barb adapter
3.    High volume weighted strainer
4.   1– 1/4″  40 Degree Nozzle
5.   1– 1/4″  0 Degree Nozzle
6.   1 –1/4″  QC Socket
7.   1– 1/4″  QC FPT

This Chemical Sprayer Can Be Used For:

• Deck Cleaning: Apply deck cleaners, deck stains and sealers with ease.
• Degreasing: Apply degreasers to heavy equipment, engines and other surfaces.
• Masonry: Apply cleaners and sealers to concrete, brick, stone, slate, and other masonry surfaces.
• Detailers: Apply cleaners, deodorizers and other products to cars trucks and boats.
• Awnings: Apply awning cleaners and sealants on fabric and vinyl awnings.
• Kitchens: Apply cleaners, sanitizing products, disinfectants in kitchens, refrigerators and bathrooms.
• Roofs: Apply roof cleaners, Mold And Mildew preventatives and sealers. (Not recommended for Heavy Sodium Hypochlorite Mixes)

Check out this revolutionary Light Weight Battery Powered Chemical Sprayer For Contractors and stop wasting money and time on pump up sprayers or hauling around heavy 12 volt car batteries!

Click Here To Order One Of These Chemical Sprayers Now!

Common House Washing Methods

Most power washing contractors believe that the best way to perform house washing is by using an X-Jet, this tool can cut your cleaning time by 50% or more! if you don’t have one then use a power washer that has a chemical injector built into the machine.  Using a chemical injector for cleaning will allow you to pull the soap from the container, mixing it in the machine with water and spray it onto the house using low pressure starting from the bottom up.

No matter what method you use for power washing houses, always allow the chemical to dwell on the siding, then using low pressure, rinse the product from the siding. Make sure when your rinsing the product off the siding that you start at one end of the siding all the way to the end. Do not stop or vary your distance from the siding, or it will cause the surface to be cleaned unevenly.

Common mistakes during house washing made by homeowners and new contractors are:

Make sure when using a power washer that you don’t shoot water or chemicals up under the siding, this can cause significant mold problems behind your siding.

Trying to remove the powdery coating called oxidation on aluminum siding when washing a house. Removing this coating can cause discoloration and in some cases cause the siding to look like a completely different color.

Using too much pressure when performing cleaning can also force water up behind the siding where it will cause mildew behind the siding or in some cases, blow the siding off the house!

Washing houses from the top down or letting chemicals dry on the house, which may leave streaks on the siding.

Using a ladder when cleaning to clean the upper areas can result in serious injuries and death from slipping off the ladder.

These are the types of mishaps that many people have when performing house washing of their home. If you decide to use a power washer on your home, here are some general guidelines to use.

Make sure the machine your using puts out a minimum of 4 gallons of water per minute and less than 1000 PSI.

Most homeowners and start up power washing companies will buy a machine from a hardware store that puts out 1,000 PSI but only uses 2 gallons per minute of water. While this machine may work, it will triple the amount of time to do the job properly.

Be careful if your making your own chemicals. For example, mixing bleach and ammonia can create a poisonous gas.

Other house washing problems

If you have dealt with other problems on house washing jobs, or other power washing jobs, share your problem or experience here so we can help you find a solution to the problem.

We carry fleet washing chemicals for contractors that are deciding to venture further into fleet washing. The work is steady,year-round, and it pays pretty well in high volume. Like any discipline, there are things to know before you start that will help you get off on the right foot. Besides buying a nice soft bristle brush, there are several things you need to think about before you venture into a business like fleet washing.

We carry a number of different fleet washing chemicals and types of washing methods for vehicles. Everyone knows how to pull out a bucket and a sponge and some soap to wash the family car and then rinse it with the hose. While that works fine on Saturday morning on your Saturn, it is probably not the most efficient method you could choose for finishing 50 trucks.

One well-known professional method is called “two-stepping”. In this technique, you hit the dirty surface with an acid-based fleet washing chemicals and then finish with an alkaline neutralizer. By switching between the opposite ends of the pH spectrum, the dirt is “popped” off the surface. These acid based fleet washing chemicals are used for the first part of the process is usually made with hydrofluoric acid. One of our hydrofluoric-based fleet washing chemicals is called Aluma Brite. This very aggressive fleet washing chemicals are perfect for any type of truck or fleet washing and for washing aluminum surfaces.

Most fleet washing chemicals use Hydrofluoric acid

Hydrofluoric acid is extremely dangerous for inexperienced people to use, however. It travels through the skin to seek and destroy the calcium in your bones and body. Severe exposure to hydrofluoric acid can be fatal in a matter of hours.

Since so many fleet washers rely on the two – step method for fast, effective results, Sun Brite Supply developed a Safety Ointment for emergency use after exposure to hydrofluoric. It can add several hours of time for you to get medical attention. We offer this with every purchase of our hydrofluoric fleet washing chemicals.

We also offer alternatives to hydrofluoric- based fleet washing chemicals, for those who are willing to sacrifice some of the aggressiveness of hydrofluoric for the safety of a different acid. We offer a citric/phosphoric solution called Aluma Safe that we sell all over the country to fleet washing companies. Because our have been specially tested and designed for fleet washing contractors, these  products are made to remove the toughest stains and soil from any type of fleet or construction equipment.

My personal favorite fleet washing chemicals are Big Truck Brite & Fleet Brite.

This fleet washing chemical is less aggressive than Fleet Brite, but it can be used on all surfaces and it leaves the vehicle with a near-wax shine. I use it on my own truck, and those of you who know how I feel about my truck will understand exactly what that means. By the way, we have Wet Wax that you can add to any fleet washing chemical to get that shine on the vehicle that fleet managers are looking for. (NOTE: We have lots of customers who even buy Wet Wax and add it to house wash mixtures for a nice gleam on vinyl and aluminum!)

Besides all of these concentrated fleet washing chemicals, we offer a powdered product called Pearl Sheen. This product is relatively new to our stable from the folks at Extreme Solutions (the HD-80 people). We know that some of you prefer powders and some prefer liquids, so we decided to carry both.

Most fleet washing chemicals work better with hot water than cold. If you don’t have a hot water pressure washer, you will use about twice the amount of fleet washing chemicals to get the job done. It’s pretty tough to wash fleets in January in Alaska if you don’t have hot water, too. There are alternatives to buying a new hot water pressure washer if you don’t already have one, though. Sun Brite Supply has Hot Boxes, which are heaters designed to connect to cold water machines.

The water you use for fleet washing makes a big difference, too. Many cleaners like to use de- ionized water (D. I. for short). This water goes through a treatment that makes it rinse off the vehicle without spots. A good wash rinse is the key to getting the most professional results. If you don’t have a D. I. system, there are some easy alternatives to D. I. that are extremely inexpensive. We have a product call SoSoft, for example, that costs only pennies to use and is almost as effective as using D. I. with your fleet washing chemicals, you just add it to your water to end up with a spot-free rinse.