Tag: Power Washer

  • Small Engine Repairs Special! Save $50 On Diagnostics Regularly Priced At $95!

    Small Engine Repairs Special! Save $50 On Diagnostics Regularly Priced At $95!

    Pay only $45 for Diagnostics on all small engine repairs and pressure washer pumps!  This includes snow blowers, leaf blowers, lawn mowers and any type of gas powered equipment you have!  Just load it up and bring it in the store and leave the rest to us! Our mechanics will diagnose each piece of equipment to see what type of repairs it needs to ensure that it’s in proper running condition so your equipment is ready to go when you are!<i>Small Engine Repairs</i> In Montgomery County Maryland

    Small Engine Repairs And Diagnostics

    Small gas engines serve us in many ways. They power lawn mowers, tillers, cultivators, trimmers, edgers, snowblowers, chain saws, pumps, generators, air compressors, pressure washers and other useful home tools. They also power our fun: outboard boats, snowmobiles, motorcycles, all-terrain vehicles, ultralight aircraft, and other toys. To keep them operating efficiently,
    an owner of these tools and toys should know about small engines: how they work and what to do when they don’t.

    Small gas engines are made up of individual systems that work together to produce power. Each system has many components.  Internal combustion gasoline-powered engines require six systems: fuel, exhaust, ignition, combustion, cooling, and lubrication. In this article, we will discuss the systems and components that make small engines work.

    The ignition is a primary system within all small gas engines. It produces and delivers the high-voltage spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture to cause combustion. No spark means no combustion, which means your engine doesn’t run.

    Below are the components found in small engine ignition systems. Some systems will include breaker point ignitions while others depend on solid-state ignitions.

    Magneto-Powered Ignition System: A magneto uses magnetism to supply electricity in ignitions where there is no battery.

    The magneto is turned by the crankshaft, which rotates when the manual recoil starter is pulled. The three types of magneto ignition systems are mechanical-breaker, capacitor-discharge, and transistor-controlled.

    Battery-Powered Ignition System: If your small engine includes a battery for starting, the ignition coil will also use it to supply spark to the spark plugs. A battery stores electrical energy until needed. Battery ignition systems also use mechanical-breaker, capacitor-discharge, and transistor-controlled ignitions.

    Mechanical-Breaker Ignitions: High-voltage electricity must be sent to the spark plug at the appropriate time. In mechanical-breaker ignitions, this job is performed through the contact points and a condenser.

    Points: As the crankshaft rotates, a cam opens and closes a set of contact points. These points function as an on/off switch: Closed is on, and open is off.

    Capacitor-Discharge Ignitions (CDI): A capacitor is a large condenser. A CDI stores and delivers voltage to the coil using magnets, diodes, and a capacitor

    Transistor-Controlled Ignitions (TCI): Transistors are electronic controllers. A TCI uses transistors, resistors, and diodes to control the timing of the spark.

    Coil: An ignition coil is simply two coils of wire wrapped around an iron core. The coil changes low voltage (6 or 12 volts) into the high voltage (15,000 to 30,000 volts) needed by the spark plug.

    Spark Plug: A spark plug is an insulated electrode that is screwed into the top of the engine cylinder. High-voltage timed electricity from the magneto travels by wire to the spark plug. The base of the plug has an air gap of about 0.030 inch (30 thousandths of an inch), which the current must jump.

    Crankshaft: An engine’s crankshaft is a metal shaft with an offset section onto which the connecting rod is attached.

    Rotation of the crankshaft moves the piston up in the cylinder. Movement of the piston down in the cylinder then rotates the crankshaft.

    Valves: Valves simply open and close passages. A reed valve in a two-stroke engine is activated by changes in air pressure.

    Flywheel: At the end of the crankshaft is a circular weighted wheel called a flywheel. The flywheel delivers the engine’s power to devices (wheels, blades, etc.) and helps keep the crankshaft turning smoothly.

    Cylinder Head: The cylinder head is the top, or ceiling, of the cylinder and is attached to the block with bolts.

    Depending on the type of engine, the head may or may not include valves.

    Piston: A piston is the movable floor in the combustion chamber. Its upward movement compresses the fuel-air mixture.

    After combustion, its downward movement rotates the crankshaft.

    Connecting Rod: Between the piston and the crankshaft is a connecting rod. At the larger end of the connecting rod is a bearing that allows rotation around the moving crankshaft. The small end is attached to the piston pin.

    The combustion system of a small gas engine is where the work gets done. Components of the combustion system include the cylinder block, cylinder head, camshaft, valves, piston, connecting rod, crankshaft, timing gears, and flywheel. To better understand small gas engines, let’s look at how this vital system works.

    Cylinder Block: The largest single part in a small gas engine is the cylinder block. It is a piece of metal in which the cylinder hole is bored or placed.

    Condenser: Because the spark moving across points can damage their surfaces, the condenser stores voltage to reduce arcing between points.

    Wires: The primary wire from the coil to the breaker point and secondary wire from the coil to the spark plug(s) deliver electricity to the ignition components.

    Distributor: A distributor is an ignition system for engines with more than one cylinder and spark plug. It distributes the spark to the appropriate cylinder using a rotor, cap, and individual spark plug wires.

    Primer: A primer injects a small amount of gasoline into the carburetor throat to make the initial fuel-air mixture rich.

    A primer is used to help start a cold engine.

    Choke: Some engines control the richness of the fuel-air mixture at startup by controlling the air rather than the fuel.

    A choke reduces the amount of air in the fuel-air mixture.

    Governor: A governor is a device that automatically opens the engine’s throttle when more power is needed and closes it when the load is light.

    Muffler: Small gas engines, especially two-stroke engines, are noisy when they operate. A muffler reduces the sound of the exhaust gases by passing them through baffles.

    Spark Arrestor: A spark can exit the exhaust port of a small gas engine, potentially starting a fire on nearby combustibles. A spark arrestor on the exhaust port can reduce the chances of such a fire. Spark arrestors are especially important on chain saws, motorcycles, and all-terrain vehicles operated in dry woodlands.

    Filter: A carburetor jet has a small opening that can easily become clogged. A fuel filter traps dirt and sediment from the gas before it is delivered to the carburetor.

    Pump: A fuel pump produces a vacuum that pulls the fuel from an unpressurized tank, then delivers it to the carburetor.

    Carburetor: The carburetor has one job: to mix the correct proportion of gasoline and air for the engine. Too much gasoline in the mixture makes it rich; too little gas makes it lean.

    Throttle: The throttle controls the amount of fuel-air mixture that enters the engine from the carburetor. The throttle thus controls the speed of the engine.

    The fuel and exhaust systems are critical to operation. They furnish the fuel for combustion and remove exhaust gases.

    The following are components of a fuel and exhaust system.

    Gasoline: Gasoline is a combustible liquid that burns relatively slowly. However, when sprayed as a mist and mixed with air, it is quite explosive. All it needs is a spark. Two-stroke engines require that oil be mixed with the gasoline to lubricate internal parts. Four-stroke engines use a fuel-air mixture.

    Fuel Tank: The fuel tank stores fuel in preparation for mixing by the carburetor and use by the engine. Some fuel tanks are pressurized with air to help deliver fuel to the carburetor. Other tanks are non-pressurized and depend on a fuel pump to deliver fuel to the carburetor.

    Fuel Line: Fuel is moved from the tank to the pump and/or carburetor through a fuel line. Pressurized fuel systems often have a squeeze bulb in the fuel line for building pressure.

    Friction: Friction is resistance that occurs when one surface rubs against another. Friction causes wear. In an engine with many moving parts, friction is reduced with bearings and lubricants.

    Bearings: A bearing is a replaceable part that takes the brunt of the friction. A friction bearing relies on lubricants to minimize friction. A nonfriction bearing uses hard steel rollers or balls to prevent wear, though it too requires some lubrication.

    Filters: Friction happens. Moving parts wear, even with the best lubricants. The resulting metal as well as carbon from the combustion process must be cleaned from the oil to ensure long lubrication. Some small engines use oil filters to remove contaminants from the circulating oil.

    Regularly servicing your small engine will ultimately save you money and time. In the next section, we’ll review how, where, and when to service this engine.

    Combustion and friction produce heat. Heat and friction — if not controlled — can quickly damage an engine’s components. Small gas engines are typically cooled by air. Friction is reduced using movable bearings and lubricants.

    Air-Cooling Fins: For simplicity, most smaller gas engines are cooled by air. Metal fins around the outside of the combustion chamber help dissipate the internal heat.

    Lubricants: Lubricants such as oil and grease reduce surface friction by coating parts with a film. Lubricants in two-stroke engines are applied to surfaces by mixing oil with fuel.

    Viscosity: An oil’s viscosity is its resistance to flow. The thicker a lubricating oil or grease is, the higher its viscosity number.

  • Small Engine Repairs

    Need small engine repairs in Maryland?

    Here is a maintenance list for small engines to reduce the risk of small engine repairs:

    • Replace oil
    • Inspect the air filter (and fuel filter if present). If dirty or clogged, clean or replace as appropriate.
    • Remove and inspect the spark plug.

    Reduce small engine repairs with maintenance!


    Checking the oil

    Small Engine Repairs
    Small Engine Repairs for Hot and Cold Water Pressure Washers

    Proper oil level is essential for the mechanics in the engine helping to reduce small engine repairs. Inadequate and it also may overheat causing engine parts to seize and fail and costly small engine repairs. Make it a habit to check the oil regularly. An average small engine in reasonably sound condition doesn’t consume lots of oil but checking oil is mandatory. Oil must be checked once the engine is cold or after waiting ten minutes with this particular engine to empty into the oil sump after running the engine. Put the machine on a flat area. If there’s a dipstick – take it off, wipe it obtaining a rag, and reinsert it directed in regards to the information sticker or in regards to the stick itself – usually threaded fully in place and removed to find out. When the level is low, progressively add the new oil to just below the entire mark.  If under 1/4″ roughly below the lip, add new oil. If oil level is high drain enough oil to lower again to the full mark.  Check oil regularly to reduce small engine repairs.

    Oil change

    Proper oil changes need to be performed at the recommended intervals to reduce small engine repairs.  For small engines, the oil change interval is generally specified by the manufacturer of the machine. More frequent oil changes might be desirable when the items are operated in a very dusty atmosphere. We also suggest an oil change at the end of the season to stop old contaminated oil from sitting in the crankcase over the winter, which may cause small engine repairs.

    Troubleshooting Guide for Small Engine Repairs

    Instant troubleshooting chart – most typical problems and possible causes for small engine repairs:

    Problem: Engine won’t start or is tough to start.

    Possible causes for these small engine repairs:

    • Gas tank is empty or shutoff valve is closed, or fuel line or gas tank cap vent is clogged.
    • There’s water within the fuel.
    • Carburetor is completely clogged.
    • Carburetor is incorrectly modified or needs service.
    • Ignition system or its wiring is defective or ignition switch is off, or timing way off (e.g., damaged flywheel key).
    • Cutoff switch is open or defective.
    • Spark plug is fouled, incorrectly gapped, or broken.
    • Engine compression is poor.
    • Operator must read user manual.

    Problem: Engine begins easily but dies in seconds.

    Possible causes for these small engine repairs:

    • Gas tank is empty or shutoff valve is closed, or fuel line or gas tank cap vent is clogged.
    • Carburetor is completed clogged.
    • Carburetor is incorrectly modified or needs service.

    Problem: Engine idles roughly, unevenly, or surges.

    Possible causes for these small engine repairs:

    • Carburetor is dirty.
    • Air leak in carburetor or intake manifold (e.g., bad O-ring, gasket, primer).
    • Carburetor is incorrectly modified or needs service.

    Problem: Engine misses under load.

    Possible causes for these small engine repairs:

    • Spark plug is fouled, incorrectly gapped, or broken.
    • Breaker points are pitted or incorrectly gapped, breaker arm is sluggish, or condenser is harmful.
    • Carburetor needs adjustment or service.
    • Fuel line, fuel filter, or gas tank cap vent is clogged, or fuel shutoff valve partly closed.
    • Valves not modified correctly or valve springs weak.
    • Exhaust ports blocked (2 stroke).

    Problem: Engine knocks.

    Possible causes for these small engine repairs:

    • Magneto isn’t timed correctly.
    • Carburetor is situated too lean.
    • Engine has overheated.
    • Carbon buildup in combustion chamber.
    • Flywheel is loose.
    • Cylinder is excessively worn.

    Problem: Engine vibrates excessively.

    Possible causes for these small engine repairs:

    • Engine isn’t mounted safely.
    • Engine or other driven items are unbalanced.
    • Crankshaft is bent.
    • Counterbalance shaft isn’t timed properly.

    Problem: Engine lacks energy (possibly after warm-up).

    Possible causes for these small engine repairs:

    • Old gas, bad spark plug, very thick/dirty oil.
    • Choke is partly closed.
    • Carburetor needs adjustment or service.
    • Ignition not timed properly.
    • Air filter is clogged.
    • There’s inefficiencies in lube.
    • Valves aren’t sealing correctly.
    • Piston rings aren’t sealing correctly.
    • Mind loose or mind gasket blown or broken.
    • Exhaust ports blocked (2 stroke).

    Problem: Engine works every once in awhile, surges, and runs unevenly.

    Possible causes for these small engine repairs:

    • Fuel line or gas tank cap vent is clogged.
    • There’s water within the fuel.
    • Fuel pump is defective.
    • Governor isn’t set correctly, adhering, or binding.
    • Carburetor needs adjustment or service.
    • Loose carburetor/intake pipe leading to vacuum leak.

    Problem: Engine getting too hot.

    Possible causes for these small engine repairs:

    • Magneto isn’t timed correctly.
    • Carburetor set too lean.
    • Air intake or cooling fans are clogged.
    • Shroud or blower housing missing.
    • Excessive load.
    • Inadequate or excessive oil.
    • Improper oil viscosity (4 stroke) or mixture (2 stroke)
    • Valve clearance is simply too small.
    • Excessive carbon buildup in combustion chamber.

    Problem: Crankcase breather passing oil.

    Possible causes for these small engine repairs:

    • Lots of oil in crankcase.
    • Engine speed is excessive.
    • Oil fill cap or gasket is broken or missing.
    • Breather mechanism is dirty or defective.
    • Piston ring gaps are aligned.
    • Piston rings are worn.

    Problem: Engine backfires.

    Possible causes for these small engine repairs:

    • Carburetor set too lean.
    • Magneto isn’t timed properly.
    • Valves are adhering.

    For Small Engine Repairs in Montgomery County Maryland, contact Sun Brite Supply of Maryland!

  • House Washing Problems

    House washing problems seem to pop up when you least expect them, here are some common problems most power washing companies have on house washing jobs.  Most of the house washing problems we hear about are usually due to not having the proper equipment or the right house washing chemicals for the job.  We suggest using cleaning chemicals that were designed to properly clean the siding.  Some contractors buy a house wash that’s available in most hardware stores and are unable to achieve the results they were expecting. Most of the house washing chemicals contractors use are designed to clean more effectively and give better results.

    Common House Washing Methods

     

    House Washing Problems? House washing chemicals applied with an XJet really do the job!Most power washing contractors believe that the best way to perform house washing is by using an X-Jet, this tool can cut your cleaning time by 50% or more! if you don’t have one then use a power washer that has a chemical injector built into the machine.  Using a chemical injector for cleaning will allow you to pull the soap from the container, mixing it in the machine with water and spray it onto the house using low pressure starting from the bottom up.

    No matter what method you use for power washing houses, always allow the chemical to dwell on the siding, then using low pressure, rinse the product from the siding. Make sure when your rinsing the product off the siding that you start at one end of the siding all the way to the end. Do not stop or vary your distance from the siding, or it will cause the surface to be cleaned unevenly.

     

    Common mistakes during house washing made by homeowners and new contractors are:

    Make sure when using a power washer that you don’t shoot water or chemicals up under the siding, this can cause significant mold problems behind your siding.

    Trying to remove the powdery coating called oxidation on aluminum siding when washing a house. Removing this coating can cause discoloration and in some cases cause the siding to look like a completely different color.

    Using too much pressure when performing cleaning can also force water up behind the siding where it will cause mildew behind the siding or in some cases, blow the siding off the house!

    Washing houses from the top down or letting chemicals dry on the house, which may leave streaks on the siding.

    Using a ladder when cleaning to clean the upper areas can result in serious injuries and death from slipping off the ladder.

    These are the types of mishaps that many people have when performing house washing of their home. If you decide to use a power washer on your home, here are some general guidelines to use.

    Make sure the machine your using puts out a minimum of 4 gallons of water per minute and less than 1000 PSI.

    Most homeowners and start up power washing companies will buy a machine from a hardware store that puts out 1,000 PSI but only uses 2 gallons per minute of water. While this machine may work, it will triple the amount of time to do the job properly.

    Be careful if your making your own chemicals. For example, mixing bleach and ammonia can create a poisonous gas.

    Other house washing problems

    If you have dealt with other problems on house washing jobs, or other power washing jobs, share your problem or experience here so we can help you find a solution to the problem.